For Ethiopian Christmas, or Genna as it’s called here, which was on Saturday 7th January, I went to Lalibela with Maeve and an Ethiopian friend of ours, Mahalnesh. Mahalnesh’s birthplace is Lalibela and so she wanted to spend Genna with her mother and sister who are still living there.
Lalibela is a town 600km north of Addis. Although it is possible to get a flight to Lalibela from Addis, we travelled by bus. It’s cheaper and you get to see all the different places you go through. It was my first really long journey in Ethiopia. Previously I had only travelled by bus from Debre Birhan to Addis and back. It was about a two and a half hour journey which was reasonably comfortable with a few toilet breaks in fields on the way.
For Lalibela we started our journey on Thursday at lunch time. From Debre Birhan we travelled to Dessie which took about seven or eight hours. We then stopped for the night in a cheap hotel in Dessie (where I got bitten by fleas in my bed) and continued on another bus at 5am the next day to Lalibela.
The journey was extremely interesting. As you travel thought different towns and villages you see just how diverse Ethiopia is. You travel just an hour or two from Debre Birhan and everything is different -
the weather, the people’s clothes, animals, houses and crops.
Inside the minibus as many people as possible are crammed. There were at least twice as many people as there should have been on it. People are crammed in on the available seats, they even sit on tiny stools that are placed in the walkway down the vehicle, and others stand. I'm still not sure why there were so many people on the busses this time– either they do this all the time, or Genna is a busy time and they try to make as much money as they can in this period.
This does not mean that there aren’t any laws about numbers of people on vehicles, there are. And there were even traffic police on the way who inspect vehicles. So how did we get past them? Well, the driver knew where they were, so before they saw us he ordered all the extra people to get off the bus and walk past the police. We got inspected with the correct number of people and were told we could continue. Then after some distance, clear of the police, the bus stopped and waited for the people who walked and got on the bus again. Simple!
Anyway we got to Lalibela completely exhausted. We visited Mahalnesh’s family which was lovely. Her mother and sister were so welcoming. Her mother is the sweetest old lady who was convinced I was Ethiopian and wouldn’t accept otherwise. The minute she saw me, she said (in Amharic) ‘Oh this is so-and-so’s daughter!’ Mahalnesh told her no, that I was a ‘ferenji’ and that my name is Fatuma. (All Ethiopians call me Fatuma.) So her mum said ‘Yes, Fatuma, her name is Fatuma, she lives in Dessie’. It was so funny. Anyway after some time we convinced her that I wasn’t Ethiopian, but every so often I’d catch her looking at me thinking ‘really?’.
The town itself is really pretty with mountains, winding roads and beautiful traditional houses. I visited the famous rock hewn churches and climbed one of the mountains from which the views were amazing.
We started our journey back home on Tuesday. We had to wake up at the ungodly hour of 3.45am to get the bus on time! I arrived back home on Thursday afternoon.